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AVO turbo install
Under construction

I installed an AVO turbo for my 2000 Miata, which has p/s and a/c.  I also bought a TEC-II.

WHAT's NEW:
March 23, 2001
  Installation documents: (sorry they're rough)


March 16, 2001:  
  -Power steering modifications descriptions and pictures: click here


I used Flyin' Miata's instructions to guide me.


Random thoughts:

Overall fabrication work needed:

- Modify EGR pipe to fit different fitting on exhaust manifold (optional if you use the TEC, required if you use a piggyback ECU). - 3 hours of work if you're slow like me

- move a/c dryer several inches by slowly pushing it and bending its pipes (not really fabrication work)

-cut mount of a/c dryer

-cut support of a/c pipe that runs under radiator

- modify p/s pump inlet fitting by cutting 90 degree bend out with a dremel and having it reconnected by brazing -  2 hours including brazing

-move p/s reservoir a few inches towards the driver so its "legs" straddle the i/c pipe

- fabricate replacement p/s cooling coils in front of radiator by bending some 44 inches of 3/8" copper tubing, flaring ends, bolting on barb fittings and using extension hoses - 4 hours including trips to hardware and borrowing their flaring tool




Things to buy:
-boost gauge (I went with the Westach 30_in_vac-0-15 psi gauge: available at www.westach.com)
-EGT (available from Westach and www.flyinmiata.com)

Essential Tools and stuff, aside from various wrenches:
-factory shop manual
-dremel set, with various grinding stones and cutting wheels
-round file attachment for dremel
- snug, well-fitting gloves (nitrile and cloth or leather)
-eye protection
-liquid wrench
-brake cleaner
-shop towels and those blue rolls of shop paper towels
-cover for fender (you'll regret it if you don't have this)
-jacks, jackstands (you have to remove the wheels, can't use ramps)


Tools and stuff for oil return line install:

BE sure to check out Hakuna's oil drain pix.
-compressor or shop-vac for oil return installation (see later)
-fitting (see pictures)
-12" or 18" long drill bit of right diameter
-grease
-tap to match fitting
-quart of mineral spirits (aka paint thinner)
-quart of ATF
-gallon of cheap engine oil
-new oil filter
-length of PVC tube that fits over long drill bit, cut so as to expose tip slightly OR length of rubber hose to do same

Procedure:
Remove undertray
Mark spot to drill (see Hakuna's site for location)
Center punch it
Drill pilot "hole" with smaller bit, without punching through - purpose is so large bit won't wander
Hook up compressor or shop vac




 Brain dump:

The AVO supplied oil return fitting is good IF you can find a tap for its threads.  I ended up buying a generic 5/8" hose i.d. 1/2"(?) NPT fitting and buying a drill and tap for that.  Be careful using a 1/2 NPT, the tap will tap all the way to the oil pickup tube.  I had to cut my tap just before it started to hit the pickup tube, so I could continue tapping deep enough for the fitting to go in several threads worth.  Maybe you'll have better luck finding a 3/8" NPT, 5/8" hose fitting than me.

You have to cut to shorten, the center manifold stud to make the manifold fit.  And you need to shave a 14mm open end wrench to fit in tight spots for some of the manifold bolts.  

You have to cut the top off the bracket of that holds the metal water pipe that runs under the exh manifold.  You barely leave the hole intact.  Like the FM kits, you have to bend up the pipe as it goes to the heater hose.  It's pretty tough stuff.

I did a lot of test fitting of the manifold by itself, which I disconnected from the turbo.  My original objective was to port-match it.  I removed some material from the manifold 4 inlets, a wee ridge on the top of the head's exhaust ports, and a bit on the inlet of the turbine.  I used rags and grease to plug the ports.  I also ground out whatever lumps I could from the exh manifold.

You have to remove the factory bracket that connects the factory downpipe to the bellhousing.

When you lower the turbo/manifold/downpipe unit into the engine, you have to take off the outboard water *fitting* first, and attach it later.  The *inboard* water hose has to be attached first.  The oil drain hose can be accessed later, from the driver's side wheel well.  AVO supply the unit with the oil *supply* hose connected, which is fine.  

The supplied L-shaped inboard water hose was too short by about 2 inches, which I discovered *after* I installed the turbo unit, (the end going in to the turbo is inaccessible), so I ended up using a coupling to extend it, which adds 2 joints.

I recommend finding the highest temperature available hoses for the water lines (IOW not just ordinary water hose).

When you connect the oil supply T to the engine, you need to do it in this sequence:  remove thick aluminum support piece between block and intake manifold, remove oil filter, remove oil pressure sender/switch, screw sender onto "extension" piece, screw assembly onto block, position so that hole in extension for barb is pointing at 3 o'clock, or between 6 o'clock and 10 o'clock.  Then push oil supply hose onto barb.

Here's a VERY important tip.  They use Aeroquip hoses and barbs.  They stay on with no clamps, but are VERY tough to push on.  The trick is to heat the end of the hose to soften it.  Heat barb with a heat gun (optional).  Dip the hose, up and down, swirling around, in a cup of just-boiled water for 20 seconds, then dip it in engine oil and push it on with slipjoint pliers.  If you didn't manage to push it on all the way, heat the end of the hose with a heat gun and keep pushing.
Aeroquip hose on a matching aeroquip fitting doesn't need a hose clamp.

They also provide aeroquip hose for the p/s, same trick applies, but since you use the factory fittings you need to use clamps.

I loosened my wastegate to about 1/4th hole diameter's worth of stretch, to run low boost, and because the TEC has electronic boost control.

AVO recommend using a wee bit of "600F hi-temp" silicone sealant on all manifold, downpipe, and front-pipe-to-cat joints.  My front pipe joints leaked without sealant.  If you think you need higher temp stuff, you can use "Silcolene", which tubocharged ship engines use, available in marine supply houses.

Check the flatness of the exhaust manifold, and lap on glass if needed.

I added inside-star washers to all hi temp nuts (but not the ones I didn't dismantle, like turbo-to-downpipe), though Terry at AVO said I didn't need them.  

I cut the manifold flange between #2 and #3 a la Greddy as a preventive measure.  

The compressor outlet doesn't have a lip.  A few drops of super glue around the perimeter, (then you slide it on very quickly) will prevent blowing off.

I don't recommend bolting on the i/c unless you can test fit the rest of the piping.  Which means installing the turbo unit first..  Unless the compressor outlet to i/c pipe is formed rubber, like mine.

I had to redo my i/c mounting 3x.  I had to space the i/c back with a long bolt and 2 nuts on the passenger side so the i/c outlet pipe would clear the front swaybar.  

The K&N will sit where the p/s pump inlet is (larger of 2 pipes that go into the pump), you need to modify that fitting that bolts into the pump and straighten it.  AVO supply a straight piece to replace it, but the piece plain doesn't work - it leaks, so you need to re-use the factory piece.

I guess part of my slowness was not having installed a turbo myself before.